Pictured are the new hoses, clips, brass tee, and master cylinder bleeding kit. I'm switching to DOT5 so I'll be flushing with alcohol, but at this point the wheel cylinders will be the only thing not replaced in the hydraulic system.

Parts:

Above is a key part of this conversion. It is the dual master cylinder conversion block, pictured at right. The original block is shown to the left. The necessary line adapter is in the output for the rear brakes.

Start of the solution to move the distribution block forward.

Bracket during the mock up phase. I got a stainless hex bolt that would recess properly to keep the clearances as low as possible.

Finished bracket. I found I had to move the distribution block forward of the original because of the fact the passenger line would exit to the left instead of toward the front like the original. Here is shown the bracket made to move the block so the exiting line would not interfere with the power steering lines. I had to re-bend the Inline Tube bracket to make the block lower profile for the connections, and once I did that had to drill a new hole for the nut and bolt. In addition, the bracket that attached to the block had to be re-bent and cut.

Above, the mock up on the bench vs. in the car to show detail. The brake distribution block receives the front and back circuits from the master cylinder (green and blue connectors), and splits them so that the back circuit goes to the back brakes, and the front circuit goes to the driver side brake (brake pipe sticking out front) and passenger side (empty hole on left side of block).

The 1967 booster would not work. It would fit, and looked like it might mate up to the pedal correctly, but the booster interferes with the column shift linkage. The speedo cable to the right is close but would have cleared, and while the steering column below looks close it did clear. Take a look at this thread to see a 1963 with a column shift converted using 1967 parts.

Sanded with 4 grades of sandpaper ending at 1000 grit, 3 coats of primer, 3 coats of gunmetal enamel, and 3 coats of clear. Looks much better.

10 year old driver and passenger side hoses replaced with ones from Inline Tube.

Back old pipes and line vs. new. The old stuff was in remarkably good age for 51 years old.

The block Inline Tube provided (left) was not correct for the back of a 1964 Buick. I had mangled the factory block (middle) getting it out since I assumed I had a replacement via the Inline block. I ended up using the block I had saved from my parts car (right).

In order for the master cylinder setup to work in my Wildcat, I had to straighten a section of the stainless steel line between the cylinder and the distribution block. Stainless is very hard to bend, and I knew it wouldn't end up perfect. Using a jig made from three wheel assemblies originally made to roll a screen door down a track got the lines to where they could be used on the car successfully.

Once all the lines were replaced I flushed the master cylinder then all the lines and wheel cylinders with denatured alcohol.

Once I got all the old fluid out and all the alcohol was flowing clean, I bled it all out via the pedal. I then opened one bleeder at a time and blew the line out for 30 seconds with dried air to make sure the alcohol was good and gone.

The money shot of $21 of DOT 5 brake fluid being bled through until I knew there wasn't a trace of anything that shouldn't be there. I ended up spending $11 more dollars ($1 an ounce) on another bottle to top it off and to have some in reserve.

Here is everything put back together where it goes including the starter wiring harness, power steering hoses, plug wires, and rerouted brake vacuum supply.

Before and after action. The after picture has the wiring harness to the starter in place so you can see everything including the power steering hoses clear the new dual master cylinder.

The road test was an absolute success. Firm pedal, great braking, proper lockup in extremes and stops straight. I'd do it again in a heartbeat!